Bat Repair

[shoremen44]

Guys,
Not sure if anyone else does their own repairs, but I have included 2 pictures of repairs I have done recently using Gorilla glue... The excess flakes off with your fingernail very easily.

I know it isnt a professional repair, but I like seeing the cracks on a cracked bat... it doesn't fill it in, but it holds very nicely with no exterior residue

[yanks12025]

May i ask why people like repairing there game used bats. To me it hurts the bat and also hurts the value more than it being cracked. That player cracked that bat so why would you not want it the way it was when he last used it. Next thing people are going to do is add seam/ball marks, cleat marks and more pine tar.

[mariner_gamers]

I only make repairs when I am unable to display because the break resulted in multiple pieces or the bat is about to come apart. I use a light amount of Crazy Glue gel so no residue is visible in the cracks.......

My 2 cents......

Davis

[Rob L]

I'm not afraid to let people hold and swing the bats after they have been repaired. I do like the crack to show but I want the bat to be able to be handled without worrying about the crack.

[MUSEOVEN]

Guys,
Not sure if anyone else does their own repairs, but I have included 2 pictures of repairs I have done recently using Gorilla glue... The excess flakes off with your fingernail very easily.

I know it isnt a professional repair, but I like seeing the cracks on a cracked bat... it doesn't fill it in, but it holds very nicely with no exterior residue

HELLO: WHAT IS A GORILLA GLUE?.. THANKS

[shoremen44]

yanks... the two I had were completely cracked in half... and I stuck the two pieces together... if that hurts the value so be it... Their in my collection, I'm not getting rid of them..

I have about 20 other in my collection that have cracks but are still in one peice... I dont touch those



Gorilla glue is a name brand... you can get it at Home Depot or Lowes

[BaseballGM]

I think each person may have his/her own preference about cracked bats. I have used Elmers wood glue in the past and it worked fine with a couple of ring vises. Whether to repair or not is up to the collector.

[Vintagedeputy]

I prefer bats that are slightly cracked and I leave them that way. A slight crack shows me that the player used it but didnt destroy it. Just my preference though....

[yanks12025]

Bert,
I did not see that they were split into 2 pieces. So i agree with repair them when their into 2 pieces. Sorry

[shoremen44]

No problem... I didnt provide the before pics... on during and after

[Andrew16v]

This guy knows what he's doing, it is a local trading shop that deals in all kinds of game used equipment. Check out all the repairs they show, you can't even tell they were ever damaged!

http://www.gameusedbats.com/game-used-repairs.cfm
http://www.gameusedbats.com/bat-restoration-repairs.cfm

[godwulf]

I've repaired (Elmer's wood glue) cracks in a number of my bats, the past couple of years - many of them in preparataion for getting them signed. I have no desire to make them look uncracked, as some folks do - I just don't get that - but I like to be able to handle them and show them to other people occasionally, and unless a crack is just impossible to easily repair, I'll do it in order to prevent further splitting, splinters, pieces coming off, etc.

By far the strangest and most time-consuming repair job was when I had one of those black Louisville Sluggers that was made back when they were having problems with their paint-drying process - some of you may remember that thread, and BMH's explanation of how it happened. The paint on the last six inches or so of the barrel was "bubbling" up and flaking off, and I ended up superglueing down each individual "blister" of paint, then covering the barrel end with about ten coats of polyeurethane varnish. On a bat that cost me $1.04. :rolleyes:

[bigtruck260]

I do all of my own repairs - and have been getting better over time.

I use strong wood glue and 'trigger' vice grips that have thick rubber pads on them. I'll try to get some photos up later. Using ultra-fine sandpaper on a blonde unfinished bat can make the crack almost invisible if the repair is done well. I just make sure to use plenty of glue and as much pressure as possible with the grips (at least 2).

[bigtruck260]

This guy knows what he's doing, it is a local trading shop that deals in all kinds of game used equipment. Check out all the repairs they show, you can't even tell they were ever damaged!

http://www.gameusedbats.com/game-used-repairs.cfm
http://www.gameusedbats.com/bat-restoration-repairs.cfm

And I agree GodWulf - the repairs on JT's bats seem like overkill to me. Unless the repair is going to enhance the value significantly, I woulnd't do too much to it. Especially the replaced foil stamping...

It looks almost like he replaced the whole handle on the knob repair...I have to admit, it looks terrific, just not something I would consider.

[bigtruck260]

...and looking again at the repairs, it appears that they might use Fred Lowman:

http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Lounge/9158/batrepair.html

Not sure though.

[godwulf]

And I agree GodWulf - the repairs on JT's bats seem like overkill to me. Unless the repair is going to enhance the value significantly, I woulnd't do too much to it. Especially the replaced foil stamping...

Past a certain point - when you start getting into repainting, "filling in" or even reconstructing big chunks of missing wood, adding the foil stamping, etc. - it begins, at least to me, to very closely resemble the situation where a jersey has been "restored"...new numbers, letters, nameplate, whatever. Some folks don't mind that a jersey or a bat has been "restored", and that's fine for them. I don't want it done to my stuff.

[bigtruck260]

This is a photo I took for a friend of a repair job I was doing on a Larry Walker bat I own. The crack was pretty easy to fix, but I never take chances on a bad repair...

Note the very cheap spring loaded (green) clamps. They are simply there for a little added pressure. When there is a visible crack, I usually sand down the edges with very fine sandpaper - just so that it even...not to hide the crack whatsoever.

[bigtruck260]

Here is a series of photos I took on a Ron Gant bat that I got last week from a forum member. As he would probably tell you, it was a pretty vicious crack that affected the stability of the handle when held.

It is the first LS R161 I've owned - and the handle is pretty thick - similar to a T142 - and that actually helped my cause.

He did a good job of fixing the displacement, I just polished it up, and made her sturdy again.

[bigtruck260]

Here is a Gregg Jefferies bat that I got from the same forum member - with almost the exact same handle crack, albeit the opposite side of the handle. It is an H shaped crack - but this one went all the way to the label, so it too needed a repair (though the previous owner probably liked it the way it was)...this bat was very well cared for, and it is one that I have been looking for. I treated it like a beloved family member getting some surgery...I used a little ebony wood filler (not too much) to shade the crack so that the tan wood grain is slightly off set. I like being able to see the crack, without it taking away from the eye appeal.

In case you haven't figured it out - I have a hard time trusting eBay descriptions that include 'professional repairs'. I have a few bats in my collection that were done by folks that would have failed 8th grade wood shop. I prefer to buy bats that are cracked rather than ones that are repaired already. I have had positive experiences with Jeff Scott and Ball Park Heroes (Kim Stigall) - they both do great work.

The I13 has a thinner handle, thus less 'meat' to work with, but I think it came out better than I had hoped. I am not a pro by any means. The bottom photo is a distance shot of the whole bat, and the original crack is visible.

[godwulf]

I use those same clamps; I get them at Home Depot, and they also come in red and orange, and in several different sizes - some big enough to put around the end of a split barrel end. With a really extensive crack, or series of cracks, I've used as many as seven or eight at a time. They're great for any number of reasons; for one thing, because of the way they're designed, you can reach in carefully with a slightly damp rag and wipe excess glue off after you've put the clamp in place.

Don't tell anyone, but I've also been known to superglue down a loose piece of handle tape. :rolleyes:

[bigtruck260]

I use those same clamps; I get them at Home Depot, and they also come in red and orange, and in several different sizes - some big enough to put around the end of a split barrel end. With a really extensive crack, or series of cracks, I've used as many as seven or eight at a time. They're great for any number of reasons; for one thing, because of the way they're designed, you can reach in carefully with a slightly damp rag and wipe excess glue off after you've put the clamp in place.

Don't tell anyone, but I've also been known to superglue down a loose piece of handle tape. :rolleyes:

Sure, sure - nothing wrong with that (IMO)...

The other thing that's cool about the clamps is that they already have rubber pads to prevent leaving clamp marks. I have repaired barrels split in two as well - and have had positive results.

[godwulf]

The other thing that's cool about the clamps is that they already have rubber pads to prevent leaving clamp marks. I have repaired barrels split in two as well - and have had positive results.

It's really amazing how much pressure you can apply with those clamps and still have the pads protect the bat from any marks!

I use isopropyl alcohol on a cotton ball to clean off any pine tar or other schmutz from the pads after I take the clamps off, which works really well and dries almost instantly.

[Andrew16v]

...and looking again at the repairs, it appears that they might use Fred Lowman:

http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Lounge/9158/batrepair.html

Not sure though.

Ok, well I gotta admit something here guys. I posted my comment and links because it is my Dad who does the reparis. Not really trying to advertise here. But he recently switched professions from being a furniture refinisher of museum quality antiques to reparing bats full time, and I'm really proud of him. I'm gonna leave my Dads name out of this completely because he likes the way it is, dealing with JT only, all the bats go through him. I can understand if you want the "Mods" to delete the post. My father doesn't even know I did this. But I did want to reply and let you know that it wasn't Fred Lowman.

Also I can fully understand not wanting a bat completely repaired. To me it kinda loses its apeal of a bat that was broken while ripping a ball! But the bats he repairs are of a different caliber with very famous names on them, some of them are worth more than his house. Most of them are commisioned by auction houses actually.

I also want to say that it looks like you guys are doing a great job on your own repairs. I like all the different ways you use to clamp the broken pcs. I don't know if you want to try it but he uses surgical tubbing to clamp sometimes like splintered pcs. He can really wrap the hell out of it with the tubbing because it stretches so much. Keep up the good work, again I wasn't trying to advertize, just simply posting hoping you'd get a kick out of!

Take care, and good luck!

[bigtruck260]

Ok, well I gotta admit something here guys. I posted my comment and links because it is my Dad who does the reparis. Not really trying to advertise here. But he recently switched professions from being a furniture refinisher of museum quality antiques to reparing bats full time, and I'm really proud of him. I'm gonna leave my Dads name out of this completely because he likes the way it is, dealing with JT only, all the bats go through him. I can understand if you want the "Mods" to delete the post. My father doesn't even know I did this. But I did want to reply and let you know that it wasn't Fred Lowman.

Also I can fully understand not wanting a bat completely repaired. To me it kinda loses its apeal of a bat that was broken while ripping a ball! But the bats he repairs are of a different caliber with very famous names on them, some of them are worth more than his house. Most of them are commisioned by auction houses actually.

I also want to say that it looks like you guys are doing a great job on your own repairs. I like all the different ways you use to clamp the broken pcs. I don't know if you want to try it but he uses surgical tubbing to clamp sometimes like splintered pcs. He can really wrap the hell out of it with the tubbing because it stretches so much. Keep up the good work, again I wasn't trying to advertize, just simply posting hoping you'd get a kick out of!

Take care, and good luck!

Your posting does not upset me in the least - I am glad that there are people like your dad out there. If it was my Dad, I would want to clear the air about his work - considering a guesser like me assumed it was someone else. Way to be a good son. Maybe we will cross paths someday.

Thanks.

[TFig27]

I have been reading some old posts about repairing bats. I have a couple bats that are in two pieces. I am looking to attach the handle to the barrel to display them and make them one piece. I really don't care about hiding the crack. They aren't overly expensive bats, so I wanted to give it a try.

In another post I read that someone used Gorilla Glue, I am assuming the wood version.

One bat also has a missing piece. I was wondering if the glue expands and globs and if it would ooze to the area with the missing piece and look unsightly. Did you notice this with the wood gorilla glue if you used it?

Any other ideas, photos, recommendations for glue?

Thanks
Tom

[markize]

Tom,

As a carpenter (among other things), I would recommend titebond wood glue. It's strong, and sets up fast. Use a set or two of clamps, and wipe any excess off after you first clamp the bat. It won't continue to ooze out of any cracks after that like gorilla glue will. If there is a missing piece, you could put some glue into the void, and put some sawdust in. Just wipe it smooth, and at least it will hide the missing piece if thats what your looking to do. Other than that, titebond will dry with a yellowish color in the void. I believe gorilla glue doesn't dry clear either. Good luck.

Mark

[mariner_gamers]

I use Krazy Glue Gel and it works fine for me. Gorilla seems to take for ever to harden, it noticeable in cracks and it expands all over everything. I imagine using Gorilla, once mastered, would provide a better long-term hold although Krazy has not failed me yet.

Just my 2 cents......

Davis

[TFig27]

Mark and Davis,

Thank you guys very much for the replies and the info, I do appreciate it.

Would either of you happen to have any pics of the cracks you repaired?

Thanks
Tom

[markize]

Tom,

I can't get to the pics now, but I will email you a couple tomorrow evening. I still have your email address.

Mark

[Rboitano]

I know a guy that does great work if you wanted someone else to do it. He has repaired a lot of my bats and he does GREAT work. Email me if you want his information.
Rboitano@charter.net

[Rob L]

If you want it professionally done, this guy is the best:

http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Lounge/9158/batrepair.html

[markize]

Tom,

I can't get to the pics now, but I will email you a couple tomorrow evening. I still have your email address.

Mark


Tom,

email and pics sent.

mark

[cordovacollector]

I do all of my own repairs - and have been getting better over time.

I use strong wood glue and 'trigger' vice grips that have thick rubber pads on them. I'll try to get some photos up later. Using ultra-fine sandpaper on a blonde unfinished bat can make the crack almost invisible if the repair is done well. I just make sure to use plenty of glue and as much pressure as possible with the grips (at least 2).

My best success at gluing and clamping bad break is: lotsa wood glue, then wrap in Saran Wrap, then use hose clamps (hex head screw type) lined with rubber or leather. Put the clamps about 1" or less and used the appropriate graded sizes. Hoses clamps insure you'll keep it in round.

Use plastic wood for filling missing pieces.

I only repair the bats that are in two or more pieces. And sometimes will touch up with pine tar if by repairing the area some was removed. Black bats are the easiest. I won't touch anything that isn't ready to fall apart.

The first bat I did was in 5 pieces and when I finished it, it looked like it was right from the factory. After applying pinetar and slapping some rosin on it it was great. Much better than a 5-piece bat but I always mark them with a "repaired" tag.

[lehmsbobby]

Hey guys just wondering your thoughts on repairing a broken bat that is in 2 pieces/

The bat has become a nuisance in two pieces and i want it to be able to be displayed in my room, which can only be done if its all together.

lemme know the steps/tape to use etc.

[mbrieve]

Here are three older threads that have covered this topic:

http://www.gameuseduniverse.com/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=18369&highlight=bat+repair

http://www.gameuseduniverse.com/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=31718&highlight=bat+repair

http://www.gameuseduniverse.com/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=22246&highlight=bat+repair

I hope these are helpful, I have never made a repair myself...