Bat Repair Question

[eGameUsed]

Hello All,

I have the following bat from Game 3 of the 2005 WS that has an extensive crack. What is the name of the guy that has been discussed that does great repair jobs?





Thanks,

Chris Boyd
www.eGameUsed.com
ccboyd@houston.rr.com
713-385-1155

[BULBUS]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Its just a few threads back:

"I have had a couple of expensive game used bats repaired by a man named Fred Lowman. I is my opinion that he does museum quality work and his fees are reasonable. He can be contacted at: fredlowman@snet.net I have seen some attempts by people who had no idea what they were doing and these usually make the bat look worse. I feel if you want an expensive bat repaired it is best left to professionals. Just my opinion though."

[hblakewolf]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Chris-
About a month ago, you were selling a Pujols gamer that you purchased on Ebay that was completely cracked in half, yet after you had it repaired, it proved difficult to even tell it was ever cracked! The 2 pieces were put back together and likewise, added additional pin tar was neatly applied to conceal the repair.

Based on the Pujols example and the great work, is it possible for you to provide us with the name of the individual who made the repairs to your Pujols bat?

Thanks.

Howard Wolf
hblakewolf@patmedia.net

[eGameUsed]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Thanks for the info! I knew it was Fred, but didn't recall the last name.

Howard, are you trying to start a fight by baiting me into a discussion on the Pujols bat. I believe that is a violation of the forum rules.

But since you asked, I myself did the repair on the Pujols bat. It was a very clean break and easy repair. Being that this bat is a little more significant to me due to it being an Astros piece of memorabilia, I wanted to have the bat repaired by the individual that had been brought up in this forum before.

As for you Howard, what is your apparent agenda on calling me out on the Pujols again? Again, I have admitted to making a mistake and pulled the auction from eBay. The eventual buyer of the bat knew full well the history. I guess I am a little disturbed by the fact you are trying to rub this back in my face.

If I was a vindictive person like yourself, then everytime you questioned a piece of memorabilia I would reply and ask you to comment on the VERY questionable Lance Berkman 2004 All-Star BP jersey that I provided photographis and documented proof that was not worn. In fact, maybe I could ask how you strangely get so many Majestic BPs. However, I am not vindictive.

Maybe this type of baiting reply to a innocent post about a bat repair is the same reason a major auction house told you to "get a life."

Thanks again Howard for encouraging all people to ask questions in an open forum knowing they won't be persecuted! You make this forum what it is today!

Thanks,

Chris Boyd
www.eGameUsed.com
ccboyd@houston.rr.com
713-385-1155

[Yankwood]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Good stuff, guys. Who needs the theater?

[Nathan]

Re: Bat Repair Question

The only thing that separates this soap opera from figure skating is that in this case, BOTH involved parties have baseball bats.

[Eric]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Everyone take a time out.
Eric

[icollectDCsports]

Re: Bat Repair Question

When you have a fantastic photo like that of the exact bat being broken, I highly recommend that you consider not repairing the bat, or at least only gluing it slightly so the two halves are together -- but not in an attempt to conceal the crack / dividing line. You could put together a really cool display with the bat next to the photo. Just my opinion.

[eGameUsed]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Thanks for all the e-mails and support! I didn't think about leaving the bat in it's current state. Great idea! BTW, there are some great photos available on mlb.com in the photo store. I already ordered a 16 x 20 of the Everett split bat. Great resource and avoid the $200 gettyimages if you can find what you are looking for.

Thanks again,

Chris Boyd
www.eGameUsed.com
ccboyd@houston.rr.com
713-385-1155

[Yankwood]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Is there a chance that we can see the picture and the bat in question. I belive I missed all this.

[Eric]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Everyone-

I wanted to remind all forum members that there are rules for participating in the Game Used Forum, and they are there for a reason. In this thread there have been clear violations of rule #17:

It is expected that all posts are to be created with a sincere attempt to benefit the hobby. Any posts which the Administrator deems as a personal attack or an attempt to unnecessarily discredit others will be subject to the administrative rules of the forum.

Any violations of this, even retaliatory ones will result in suspensions.

Please see the post in its own thread regarding another important rule which some users have not been folowing recently.

Thanks for your consideration on this matter
Eric
moderator

[stlbats]

Re: Bat Repair Question

I have heard that Fred removes all the pine tar on a bat, fixes it and reapplies pine tar. If this is the case, it too me is not acceptible. I wouldnt want all the tar removed that the player put on there. Other than this, I have heard nothing but good things about Fred.

Jason

[dranimal]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Tell me the glue of choice please so I can practice on my bat. Thanks Jeff

[icollectDCsports]

Re: Bat Repair Question

Bats are made out of wood, so use "wood glue." Basic wood glue is also known as "yellow glue" due to its color. Elmer's makes some that's either called Wood Glue or Carpenter's Glue, I can't recall, but the most popular wood glue among woodworkers is make by Tite Bond. You can find both brands at your local home improvement store.

One thing to look out for is glue squeezing out of the crack of the bat after you've applied it and clamped it (which you'll need to do to keep the pieces positioned until the glue dries). So don 't overdue the application of the glue, and gently wipe away glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth before it has a chance to dry.

I'm sure there are other glues out there that would work, but wood glue is the best to use long-term. I would, however, avoid some of the polyurethane glues made for woodworking (such as Gorilla Glue). Those glues notoriously foam up and squeeze out all over the place, making for a pain in the rear job to remove even if it's not yet hard.