Juan Gris
02-16-2015, 10:49 AM
I completed a bat repair project this past weekend and wanted to share some advice and before and after pics. The crack was relatively clean, running about 10 inches up the handle, with just a minimal amount of wood loss (about a centimeter long on the top end of the fractured segment). The bat is staying in my personal collection and I wanted to prevent future damage (such as the crack widening or splitting off) while also improving the display quality. The crack lines are still visible when looking at the bat up close which is something I appreciate and value in a game used bat.
For the repair I had to remove a small bit of wood on the underside of the fractured segment in order to pop it back in place. This sliver of wood would not have been visible after popping the segment back in and I did no sanding or removal of "visible" wood along the edges. What little wood you see missing in the "after" pictures was ejected during the on-field break.
I used an Elmer's Wood Glue for the bonding agent and various sized pieces of plastic to spread the glue on both sides of the handle interior (such as the flat side of a plastic zip tie and a credit card sized piece of plastic). I've found that spreading the glue on a piece of paper (like a painter's palette) and transferring the glue with plastic tools (like a paintbrush) allows for more control and efficiency. It's important to incorporate an even coat of glue but not so much that you create a mess for yourself as pressure is applied and the excess squeezes out the sides. As others have mentioned, be sure to wipe off any and all excess glue with a damp cloth as pressure is applied and the glue begins to set and expand.
To secure the bat during the drying process I used two Irwin Quick-Grip clamps that I reinforced with rubber bands to enhance the pressure. I have access to a hydraulic adjustable computer table which is perfect for applying top-to-bottom pressure on a bat. I left everything undisturbed for approximately 24 hours and, when I took the clamps away, the bat felt like new.
Here are some pictures and I hope I shared something useful to someone!
For the repair I had to remove a small bit of wood on the underside of the fractured segment in order to pop it back in place. This sliver of wood would not have been visible after popping the segment back in and I did no sanding or removal of "visible" wood along the edges. What little wood you see missing in the "after" pictures was ejected during the on-field break.
I used an Elmer's Wood Glue for the bonding agent and various sized pieces of plastic to spread the glue on both sides of the handle interior (such as the flat side of a plastic zip tie and a credit card sized piece of plastic). I've found that spreading the glue on a piece of paper (like a painter's palette) and transferring the glue with plastic tools (like a paintbrush) allows for more control and efficiency. It's important to incorporate an even coat of glue but not so much that you create a mess for yourself as pressure is applied and the excess squeezes out the sides. As others have mentioned, be sure to wipe off any and all excess glue with a damp cloth as pressure is applied and the glue begins to set and expand.
To secure the bat during the drying process I used two Irwin Quick-Grip clamps that I reinforced with rubber bands to enhance the pressure. I have access to a hydraulic adjustable computer table which is perfect for applying top-to-bottom pressure on a bat. I left everything undisturbed for approximately 24 hours and, when I took the clamps away, the bat felt like new.
Here are some pictures and I hope I shared something useful to someone!