Dry separated wood - repair?

[BVC]

I just recently received a nice game-used bat, but the barrel is very dry and has some wood separation. I know how to repair it, but my question is whether or not I should. For the sake of preserving the bat for years to come, does it make sense to glue down the separated wood, or to add something to the wood to make it less dry? Thanks.

[danesei@yahoo.com]

I was given the impression that you need specific tools for deadwood repair, since the glue needs to penetrate fairly deep into each separated seam. If you have those tools at your disposal, you might be asking the wrong group. I'd consider asking a local furniture repair shop/club for their opinions.

If, however, you feel that you confidently do have the proper tools and experience to repair the bat both ways, I would say the better solution would be to simply glue down the pieces. I'm not sure that moisturizing the wood would correct the issue, unless you're planning to moisturize the wood to make it more pliable, then repairing it with glue.

In any case, this is one of those things where you're likely best served seeking the opinion of a local expert in wood furniture restoration (or baseball bat restoration, if someone local to you does that). They would be able to tell you if this is a DIY job or if you simply don't have the right tools for it. You could also consult some of the bat experts for repair quotes.

[seanbaseball]

ask Jeff Scott at birdbats.com as he has done several museum quality repairs for me on bats

[BVC]

Thanks for your responses.

Sorry, I realize now that my question came across incorrectly. I do know how to repair the bat. My question is whether you guys, as game-used collectors, think that the repair should be done, or whether I should instead leave it as-is.

I was thinking that the dried wood will only get drier over time, so perhaps I should repair it, gluing and also possibly doing something to inhibit further drying out.

[danesei@yahoo.com]

Thanks for your responses.

Sorry, I realize now that my question came across incorrectly. I do know how to repair the bat. My question is whether you guys, as game-used collectors, think that the repair should be done, or whether I should instead leave it as-is.

I was thinking that the dried wood will only get drier over time, so perhaps I should repair it, gluing and also possibly doing something to inhibit further drying out.

Today, dead-wood is viewed as a huge minus, and professional repair could help remove some of that lost value, but who knows how the hobby will view repairs five or twenty years from now? If you're a professional furniture restorer, the question might be better asked whether repairing the checking now will actually stop the deadwood. If there's a way to chemically inhibit the process that doesn't somehow hurt the wood, maybe you could opt for that route.

If dead-wood is unlikely to get worse (in a semi-controlled storage environment), then maybe you could leave it be until ready to sell. Then you could ask potential purchasers whether they'd want the bat with the dead wood or restored.

[BVC]

Thanks. The plan is for this to be a 'permanent' item in my collection, but before making any changes to an item, I always try to consider how a future owner would view it. I've only repaired dead wood once, but it was on a seriously damaged bat that was only worth $100. Also, after gluing I used wood sealer and gave it a dull refinish, so I know it was protected. I don't have that option on this bat, as it was signed and inscribed on the barrel. I'm kind of ticked that the auction house didn't mention the dead wood, but re-looking at their photos, you could see some evidence of it, although it's worse in person.

[danesei@yahoo.com]

Yeah, the SCP auction shows a lot of grain separation in the 3rd photo from the top in the left column and the second photo in the right. You're right that they could have more obviously disclosed it, but auction houses generally don't accept returns, and they exist to maximize selling price for consignors. Sorry to hear you had a disappointing experience. I was surprised to see the price break $1000, but maybe I just don't value the Yankee Stadium inscription as much as others. Since this is a keeper for your collection, if you don't mind, what were you willing to pay for the bat, and where were you expecting the price to finish?

[BVC]

I didn't care that much about the Yankee Stadium inscription - I was more interested in an untracked and signed Cano bat of this style;i.e-taped handle, pine tar, either a Louisville Slugger or this style (I wanted an 'old school' look, not a black barrel). The plan was to pick up a Cano-hit ball at a Mariners game to display with it - ended up getting a double that was left in the game and he scored off of as well, so I was happy with that.

I went one bid higher than planned and then went to bed before it ended, knowing I was paying a bit much for it. My experiences with SCP have always been good and I try to give the auction houses the benefit of the doubt, which I will do in this case as well.

Thanks for all of your responses

[BVC]

At the start of the auction I was guessing, with the juice, around $750-800, but my modern game-used collecting experience is very limited. For the ones that I've chosen less-wisely on, I have a few that I did very well on, so this isn't that big of a deal.

[danesei@yahoo.com]

At the start of the auction I was guessing, with the juice, around $750-800, but my modern game-used collecting experience is very limited. For the ones that I've chosen less-wisely on, I have a few that I did very well on, so this isn't that big of a deal.

What did you have as your "cap" of what you were willing to pay, though, given that you expected the price to finish in the $750-$800 range?